Schneiderware Power Supply - Revision history

Ygdrazil at 07:20, 29 August 2014

2014-08-29T07:20:01Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:20, 29 August 2014
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	* [[Media:LM 323 Datasheet.pdf\|LM323 Datasheet]] - 3-pin 5V voltage converter (used by the power supply)		* [[Media:LM 323 Datasheet.pdf\|LM323 Datasheet]] - 3-pin 5V voltage converter (used by the power supply)
	* [[Media:L200 Datasheet.pdf\|L200 Datasheet]] - 5-pin variable-voltage converter (seems to be used by an alternate version of the power supply)		* [[Media:L200 Datasheet.pdf\|L200 Datasheet]] - 5-pin variable-voltage converter (seems to be used by an alternate version of the power supply)

			[[Category:Peripherals]]

Nocash: /* Alternate Versions */

2010-10-02T15:05:45Z

Alternate Versions

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:05, 2 October 2010
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	There seem to have been one or two alternate versions:		There seem to have been one or two alternate versions:

	* The photo in the original article showed a different PCB with Gl1 and Gl2 differently arranged. That photo may have been a dummy~~/prototype~~. Later adverts are showing the "normal" Gl1/Gl2 arrangement.		* The photo in the original article showed a different PCB with Gl1 and Gl2 differently arranged. And, the whole design is somehow mirrored or rotated (looks as if the components are installed on the solder side). That photo may have been a prototype, or faked dummy for illustration purposes. Later adverts are showing the "normal" Gl1/Gl2 arrangement.
	* The magazine later released a correction on their ~~letters~~ page which recommended to replace the 5K6 and 10K resistors on the L200 voltage converter - it sounded perfectly reasonable - except that, the DIY project doesn't contain any of that components. The correction (if it wasn't total nonsense) implies that the magazine shipped different PCBs to some people via their mail-order service.		* The magazine later released a correction on their Letters page which recommended to replace the 5K6 and 10K resistors on the L200 voltage converter - it sounded perfectly reasonable - except that, the DIY project doesn't contain any of that components. The correction (if it wasn't total nonsense) implies that the magazine shipped different PCBs to some people via their mail-order service.

	And aside from the "official" Schneiderware supply, one could of course use any other suitable power supply. Nowadays, it would be easiest and cheapest to use an outsorted PC power supply, which provides perfectly regulated +5V, +12V and -12V with more than enough Amperes.		And aside from the "official" Schneiderware supply, one could of course use any other suitable power supply. Nowadays, it would be easiest and cheapest to use an outsorted PC power supply, which provides perfectly regulated +5V, +12V and -12V with more than enough Amperes.

Nocash at 02:43, 2 October 2010

2010-10-02T02:43:19Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:43, 2 October 2010
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	And aside from the "official" Schneiderware supply, one could of course use any other suitable power supply. Nowadays, it would be easiest and cheapest to use an outsorted PC power supply, which provides perfectly regulated +5V, +12V and -12V with more than enough Amperes.		And aside from the "official" Schneiderware supply, one could of course use any other suitable power supply. Nowadays, it would be easiest and cheapest to use an outsorted PC power supply, which provides perfectly regulated +5V, +12V and -12V with more than enough Amperes.

	== Article ==		== Scanned Article ==

	* [[Schneiderware Power Supply\|Schneiderware #4 ~~Netzteil (~~Power Supply)]] (9/1986 ~~pages~~ 78-83, corrections on 10/1986 page 85, 5/1987 page 12)		* [[Media:Schneiderware 4 - Power Supply.pdf\|Schneiderware 4 - Power Supply.pdf]] - Netzteil - '''9/1986 page 78-83''', corrections on 10/1986 page 85, 5/1987 page 12

	== Pictures ==		== Pictures ==

Nocash: /* Alternate Versions */

2010-09-30T22:11:19Z

Alternate Versions

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:11, 30 September 2010
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	There seem to have been one or two alternate versions:		There seem to have been one or two alternate versions:

	* The photo in the original article showed a different PCB with Gl1 and Gl2 differently arranged. That photo may have been a dummy/prototype. Later adverts are showing the "normal" Gl1/Gl2 arrangement.		* The photo in the original article showed a different PCB with Gl1 and Gl2 differently arranged. That photo may have been a dummy/prototype. Later adverts are showing the "normal" Gl1/Gl2 arrangement.
	* The magazine later released a correction on their letters page which recommended to replace the 5K6 and 10K resistors on the L200 voltage converter - it sounded perfectly reasonable - except that, the DIY project doesn't contain any of that components. The correction (if it wasn't total nonsense) implies that the magazine shipped different PCBs to some people via their mail-order service.		* The magazine later released a correction on their letters page which recommended to replace the 5K6 and 10K resistors on the L200 voltage converter - it sounded perfectly reasonable - except that, the DIY project doesn't contain any of that components. The correction (if it wasn't total nonsense) implies that the magazine shipped different PCBs to some people via their mail-order service.

			And aside from the "official" Schneiderware supply, one could of course use any other suitable power supply. Nowadays, it would be easiest and cheapest to use an outsorted PC power supply, which provides perfectly regulated +5V, +12V and -12V with more than enough Amperes.

	== Article ==		== Article ==

Nocash: /* Connection Cautions */

2010-09-30T21:38:15Z

Connection Cautions

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:38, 30 September 2010
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	The CPC's internal +5V supply should be disconnected when connecting the external power-supply, otherwise something terrible might happen (for example, when one supply tries to output a few more volts than the other, or so).		The CPC's internal +5V supply should be disconnected when connecting the external power-supply, otherwise something terrible might happen (for example, when one supply tries to output a few more volts than the other, or so).

	The giant cooling plate (and the LM323K voltage regulator) aren't meant to be mounted directly on the PCB, but rather stacked a few centimenters above of the PCB (can ~~been~~ seen on photos in some of the later adverts).		The giant cooling plate (and the LM323K voltage regulator) aren't meant to be mounted directly on the PCB, but rather stacked a few centimenters above of the PCB (can be seen on photos in some of the later adverts).

	== Alternate Versions ==		== Alternate Versions ==

Nocash at 21:37, 30 September 2010

2010-09-30T21:37:46Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:37, 30 September 2010
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	The CPC's internal +5V supply should be disconnected when connecting the external power-supply, otherwise something terrible might happen (for example, when one supply tries to output a few more volts than the other, or so).		The CPC's internal +5V supply should be disconnected when connecting the external power-supply, otherwise something terrible might happen (for example, when one supply tries to output a few more volts than the other, or so).

			The giant cooling plate (and the LM323K voltage regulator) aren't meant to be mounted directly on the PCB, but rather stacked a few centimenters above of the PCB (can been seen on photos in some of the later adverts).

	== Alternate Versions ==		== Alternate Versions ==

	There seem to have been one or two alternate versions:		There seem to have been one or two alternate versions:
	* The photo in the ~~magazine~~ showed a different PCB with ~~giant cooling plate, which won't fit on the DIY layout~~. That photo may have been a dummy/prototype.		* The photo in the original article showed a different PCB with Gl1 and Gl2 differently arranged. That photo may have been a dummy/prototype. Later adverts are showing the "normal" Gl1/Gl2 arrangement.
	* The magazine later released a correction on their letters page which recommended to replace the 5K6 and 10K resistors on the L200 voltage converter - it sounded perfectly reasonable - except that, the DIY project doesn't contain any of that components. The correction (if it wasn't total nonsense) implies that the magazine shipped different PCBs to some people via their mail-order service.		* The magazine later released a correction on their letters page which recommended to replace the 5K6 and 10K resistors on the L200 voltage converter - it sounded perfectly reasonable - except that, the DIY project doesn't contain any of that components. The correction (if it wasn't total nonsense) implies that the magazine shipped different PCBs to some people via their mail-order service.

Nocash: /* Description */

2010-09-30T20:25:54Z

Description

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:25, 30 September 2010
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	* +5V DC - needed only when the CPC's built-in supply gets overloaded		* +5V DC - needed only when the CPC's built-in supply gets overloaded
	* +12V DC - needed for the [[Schneiderware V/24 ~~interface~~]] and the [[Schneiderware Analog Converter]]		* +12V DC - needed for the [[Schneiderware V/24 Interface]] and the [[Schneiderware Analog Converter]]
	* -12V DC - needed for the [[Schneiderware V/24 ~~interface~~]] only		* -12V DC - needed for the [[Schneiderware V/24 Interface]] only
	* +24V DC - not used (was intended for the EPROM Burner, but when the EPROM burner was released, it contained a 5V-to-25V converter, and thus didn't need the +24V anymore)		* +24V DC - not used (was intended for the EPROM Burner, but when the EPROM burner was released, it contained a 5V-to-25V converter, and thus didn't need the +24V anymore)

Nocash: /* Pictures */

2010-09-30T20:21:24Z

Pictures

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:21, 30 September 2010
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	File:Schneiderware 4 Netzteil (solder side).jpg\|Supply/Netzteil (solder side)		File:Schneiderware 4 Netzteil (solder side).jpg\|Supply/Netzteil (solder side)
	</gallery>		</gallery>

			== Datasheets ==

			* [[Media:LM 323 Datasheet.pdf\|LM323 Datasheet]] - 3-pin 5V voltage converter (used by the power supply)
			* [[Media:L200 Datasheet.pdf\|L200 Datasheet]] - 5-pin variable-voltage converter (seems to be used by an alternate version of the power supply)

Nocash: /* Connection Cautions */

2010-09-30T15:01:59Z

Connection Cautions

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:01, 30 September 2010
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	The supply uses the same type of 2x32 pin connector as the other Schneiderware boards, however, the supply is '''NOT''' intended to be plugged into the [[ECB Bus]] sockets, instead, it should be wired to the 7 soldering points on the [[Schneiderware Basisplatine]].		The supply uses the same type of 2x32 pin connector as the other Schneiderware boards, however, the supply is '''NOT''' intended to be plugged into the [[ECB Bus]] sockets, instead, it should be wired to the 7 soldering points on the [[Schneiderware Basisplatine]].

			Namely, it connects to the three GND pins, and the 5V, and -/+12V pins. The seventh pin, "AC", is left unused (it's been intended for rechargeable "ACCU" batteries, but the later RTC and SRAM projects contained their own batteries, and didn't use the "AC" supply).

	The CPC's internal +5V supply should be disconnected when connecting the external power-supply, otherwise something terrible might happen (for example, when one supply tries to output a few more volts than the other, or so).		The CPC's internal +5V supply should be disconnected when connecting the external power-supply, otherwise something terrible might happen (for example, when one supply tries to output a few more volts than the other, or so).

Nocash: /* Connection Caution */

2010-09-30T14:54:26Z

Connection Caution

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:54, 30 September 2010
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	Aside from the components on the PCB, one does also need a transformator, which isn't shown on the photos. Despite of being a very important component, the DIY article contained only few side-notes on the transformator. The thing must provide a number of AC voltages, and it might be difficult to find a matching transformator (one could get one from the magazine via mail-order, but it wasn't cheap).		Aside from the components on the PCB, one does also need a transformator, which isn't shown on the photos. Despite of being a very important component, the DIY article contained only few side-notes on the transformator. The thing must provide a number of AC voltages, and it might be difficult to find a matching transformator (one could get one from the magazine via mail-order, but it wasn't cheap).

	== Connection ~~Caution~~ ==		== Connection Cautions ==

	~~'''Caution''' -~~ The supply uses the same type of 2x32 pin connector as the other Schneiderware boards, however, the supply is '''NOT''' intended to be plugged into the [[ECB Bus]] sockets, instead, it should be wired to the 7 soldering points on the [[Schneiderware Basisplatine]].		The supply uses the same type of 2x32 pin connector as the other Schneiderware boards, however, the supply is '''NOT''' intended to be plugged into the [[ECB Bus]] sockets, instead, it should be wired to the 7 soldering points on the [[Schneiderware Basisplatine]].

			The CPC's internal +5V supply should be disconnected when connecting the external power-supply, otherwise something terrible might happen (for example, when one supply tries to output a few more volts than the other, or so).

	== Alternate Versions ==		== Alternate Versions ==